Expert Talk with Jose Luis Fettolini: What Really Makes a Sustainable Jewelry Label?

Jose Luis Fettolini is an internationally recognized jewelry designer, lecturer, and author of the book “Sustainable Jewellery” and “The Jewellery Entrepreneur’s Guide: Building and Growing Your Brand”. With decades of experience in jewelry design and academia, his work is dedicated to exploring how sustainability principles can be meaningfully integrated into the jewelry industry.

In his research, teaching, and publications, Jose Luis Fettolini examines sustainability not only as a material issue, but as a strategic and ethical framework that influences design decisions, supply chains, brand building, and long-term transformation within the industry.

His work bridges theory and practice and offers valuable guidance to designers, brands, and students who want to build a jewelry business that is both aesthetically appealing and responsibly structured.

In this conversation, we speak with him about what truly defines a sustainable jewelry brand and what it takes to build one with integrity.

The following statements reflect the interviewee’s personal assessment.

Jose: >A sustainable jewelry brand is defined not by what it communicates, but by the way it works as a whole. This means making consistent decisions throughout the entire value chain: from the origin of the materials to the production processes and working conditions, all the way to the relationship with the customer.

This also includes using traceable metals and gemstones, as well as working with responsible suppliers who ensure ethical practices.

Above all, however, a sustainable brand is transparent. It does not try to appear perfect, but communicates honestly about its processes, its limitations, and its opportunities for improvement. Sustainability is not a goal to be achieved, but an ongoing journey.<

Jose: >The first indicator is transparency. A brand that is seriously committed to sustainability clearly explains where its materials come from, how they are produced, and who it works with, while avoiding vague or generic statements.

Consistency is also crucial. It is not about having one “sustainable” product or one “sustainable” collection, but about integrating this criterion into every decision across the entire company.

More broadly, the most important aspect is traceability. The customer should be able to trace the journey of the materials. Without this information, it is not possible to properly assess their actual impact or speak knowledgeably about sustainability.<

Jose: > In the jewelry industry, raw materials have the greatest impact, especially because of the conditions under which they are sourced. For this reason, many brands focus on working with certified metals, recycled silver, or ethically sourced gemstones.

This is a good starting point and probably one of the most complex aspects to implement.

However, this alone is not enough. Traceability should extend to all materials and processes, including secondary components. In addition, decisions related to design, production, distribution, and logistics also contribute to a brand’s overall footprint.

In this context, sustainability is not a one-time measure, but a continuous process of review and improvement.<

Jose: > True transparency means providing clear, specific, and verifiable information about the entire value chain.

It is not just about communicating intentions, but about disclosing concrete data: the origin of the materials, the suppliers involved, the production conditions, and the processes behind each individual stage.

One of the most common gaps in the industry is the use of vague terms such as “sustainable” or “ethical” without proper justification. Many brands communicate only part of the process without offering a complete overview, which makes it difficult to assess their actual impact. <

Jose: >When it comes to jewelry, speaking of durability is something of an understatement. It is a concept that may be more relevant in other industries, such as fashion, but jewelry pieces are by definition designed to last – above all because of the intrinsic value of their materials.

A piece of jewelry must be well made. It makes no sense to work with precious metals to create pieces that are not meant to last forever.

For this reason, presenting durability as a distinguishing feature within the context of sustainability may in some cases be more of a communication tool than a meaningful criterion. Durability is not an innovation in jewelry; it is part of its essence.<

Jose: >The industry must work toward greater standardization and clarity regarding what sustainability in the jewelry sector really means.

At present, many initiatives are still carried out in isolation, making it difficult to establish shared criteria and compare or assess the actual impact of different brands.

One of the biggest challenges is to develop more integrated traceability systems that are shared by all stakeholders within the supply chain.

In addition, sustainability must be understood as a collective responsibility. It must not rest solely with the end brand, but must also involve suppliers, workshops, and retailers.<

Jose: >The next generation of sustainable jewelry brands will stand out by integrating sustainability as a structural foundation of their business, rather than viewing it merely as a positioning strategy.

We will see brands with a higher degree of traceability and more discerning consumers who expect clear and verifiable information.

This scenario may, however, be somewhat idealistic. Today, many brands rely on their sustainability messaging—or even exaggerate it—focusing on aspects such as local production, small-batch manufacturing, or the use of recycled packaging, even though these elements alone are not enough.

The decisive factor will continue to be the origin of the raw materials. Without traceability and reliable certifications, it is not possible to speak about sustainability with genuine credibility.

The challenge for this new generation will be to move toward more coherent models, where sustainability is not just a narrative but is reflected in real, verifiable decisions throughout the entire project.<