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Leonie Eppers bei der Arbeit als Edelsteinfasserin und Goldschmiedin

Meet the Maker: Gemstone Setter & Master Goldsmith Leonie Eppers

Design & Maker

Meet the maker

In the world of artistic jewelry and precise craftsmanship, there are personalities that impress not only through their skills but also through their passion and vision. Leonie Eppers is such an artist. 

In our latest "Meet the Maker" interview, we introduce you to Leonie – a talented gemstone setter and master goldsmith with a passion for precision, aesthetics, and sustainability who has been supporting us at Maren Jewellery since the end of 2024.

With awards such as the master craftsman examination as the best of her year and an impressive portfolio of qualifications that combines traditional craftsmanship and modern technology, Leonie stands out not only for her expertise but also for her unique approach to sustainable work.

In our Meet the Maker interview, we spoke with Leonie about her craft roots, the challenges and beauties of her profession, and the special techniques that make her work unique. Let yourself be inspired by her passion and creative approach!

Leonie Eppers bei der Fasser Arbeit von Schmuck
Diamanten werden in einen Ring gefasst unter dem Mikroskop

Dear Leonie, Thank you very much for taking the time for an interview with us. Please introduce yourself and your company briefly.

My name is Leonie Eppers, I am 29 years old and I founded my company as a gemstone setter and master goldsmith in October 2024. I am a gemstone setter, master goldsmith, and state-certified designer for jewelry and product design. As a sole proprietor, I handle everything related to my business myself.

What inspired you to become a master goldsmith and setter?

My love for handcrafted and creative work and my miniature obsession. When I first entered a goldsmith's workshop, I knew I would feel at home there, and that is still the case today. My workbench is my absolute feel-good place.

In my first job after my training, I learned about a particularly sustainable approach to work. At the same time, I worked a lot with fair colored gemstones for the first time and even set a few gemstones myself. This work truly inspired me to work long-term in the jewelry industry. The idea of being able to create a piece of jewelry completely on my own, including the setting work that is often outsourced, captivated me here.

Goldschmiedin beim löten
Frau beim Sägen von Gold

You were recently in Copenhagen for a year and worked there, how did that inspire you?

The greatest inspiration in Copenhagen was the people, especially the women I met there. Aesthetics and beauty in the living environment hold a special significance for the Danish population. The city as a living space is correspondingly incredibly beautiful, and that had a tremendous impact on me and my creative power.

I worked there for a small jewelry label as a gemstone setter and was surrounded by a team of incredibly inspiring, strong women. Although our culture does not differ significantly from Danish culture, I had the impression that the women there live with a different, bolder sense of self. Since they were all also involved in the jewelry industry, this inspired me on a personal level, but especially on a professional level - also to start my own business.

Frau beim löten von Gold
verschiedene Verlobungsringe in Handarbeit angefertigt
Nahaufnahme des Werkzeugs einer Fassermeisterin
Frau bei der Goldschmiedearbeit

Can you tell us more about the process of goldsmithing and setting for jewelry pieces? How does it work?

The work process in goldsmithing and also in setting builds up from coarse to fine. Essentially, it is about deciding which step should be carried out at what time. At the same time, I want to be careful and efficient. When I receive an order for goldsmithing and setting, the first step is to mentally structure in what order I will carry out the necessary work steps.

And when it starts, it is usually a good idea to complete all goldsmithing work before setting the stones. Setting gemstones always involves both the optical and technical components. It is important that it is straight and looks straight - but also that the stone is secured in the piece of jewelry. When setting, I work under the microscope. This allows me to have good control over the placement of the drill holes, milling, and polishing cuts.

The setting of gemstones is done purely from the available material. The idea behind every type of setting is to incorporate a support for the gemstone into the material, on which it rests precisely, and then to secure it from the outside and above with surrounding material. This can look quite different, but the principle remains largely the same.

Frau in ihrer Goldschmiede und Fasserwerkstatt

When I first entered a goldsmith workshop, I knew I would feel at home there, and that is still the case today. My workbench is my absolute feel-good place.

Are there any special techniques or methods that you use?

As a setter, I work with the latest technology under the microscope and with a pneumatically supported engraving (so-called graver) system. This allows me to achieve maximum precision and durability under up to 50x magnification. As a goldsmith, I learned a very traditional working method during my training and then supplemented this in the master course with training in 3D design and systematic design work. The qualification as a state-certified designer for jewelry and product design has created a valuable connection between the creative and the craft component of my work. 

Through my extensive qualifications, I have a good overview of all necessary work steps. This allows me to plan my work in such a way that I can avoid material waste while also ensuring that the piece of jewelry is crafted to a particularly high standard and thus durable.

In my goldsmith workshop, I also avoid toxic chemicals wherever possible and use, for example, citric acid instead of sulfuric acid.

Thank you very much, Leonie, for giving us such an inspiring insight into your work and your passion for goldsmithing and gemstone setting.

H Symbol für Autor Helge Maren Hauptmann

Written By Helge Maren

Helge Maren, the designer behind Maren Jewellery, combines her deep passion for jewelery with impressive expertise. Her texts reflect her dedication to the timeless, luxurious jewelry aesthetic and a forward-looking sustainable lifestyle that characterize Maren Jewelry.
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