Meet the Maker: Gemstone Setter Julia Kling

Utmost precision, decades of experience, and deep roots in traditional craftsmanship—all of this comes together in Julia Kling's work as a gemstone setter. Raised in a family where gemstone setting has been practiced for generations, she now carries this special heritage forward with great dedication. Her great-grandfather was already among Germany's first jewel setters, and the generations that followed also shaped the craft with the highest level of mastery. This inherited knowledge, combined with her own many years of experience, makes Julia Kling an expert who has mastered her craft down to the smallest detail.

After more than 15 years of professional experience, she became self-employed in 2023 with her own workshop near Pforzheim, the historic center of the jewelry industry. There, she combines traditional skill with state-of-the-art technologies and tools. Her work requires not only a steady hand and the utmost concentration, but also a deep understanding of materials, shapes, and proportions. She fits each gemstone with the greatest care and with exact precision under the microscope, so that it sits securely while being able to reveal its full brilliance.

Setting gemstones is an art in itself, a discipline that combines craftsmanship, experience, and a feel for the material. Julia Kling masters a wide range of setting techniques and selects the right method for each piece of jewelry to showcase the stone at its best. She works with the utmost precision: tiny millings, precisely placed drill holes, and finely tuned adjustments ensure that every stone fits perfectly.

By using modern technologies, such as working under a microscope or with pneumatic tools, she can also work with demanding materials like titanium or stainless steel. At the same time, she remains true to traditional craftsmanship and continues to refine her techniques. Her work is distinguished by exceptional attention to detail, durability, and the highest quality, qualities that make every piece of jewelry truly special.

I have been a self-employed gemstone setter since 2023 and have 15 years of professional experience. My workshop is located near the gold city of Pforzheim, where I also completed my training as a gemstone setter and goldsmith.

Training as a gemstone setter takes 3.5 years. I completed this in the dual system, which means I worked full-time at the company and also attended the Goldsmith and Watchmaking School in Pforzheim twice, each time for six weeks.

I was inspired by my father. My two aunts and my grandfather are also master gemstone setters. I always wanted to learn a skilled trade, so I started my apprenticeship at 16.

Each piece of jewelry is unique, and there are various stone-setting techniques for securely fastening different stones. The first step is usually securing the piece of jewelry so it can be worked on. For this, putty is used, which softens when heated so the piece can be pressed into it.
Since I work under a microscope, I can make very precise drillings and millings to fit the stone perfectly.

Among other things, I work with a pneumatic graver, which enables me to work even with harder materials such as stainless steel or titanium. At the Inhorgenta jewelry trade fair, I regularly test new technologies and, where appropriate, integrate them into my day-to-day work. I also often use carbide drill bits, which have significantly less wear than conventional drill bits.

For the ReMind rings, I generally need about 30 minutes. However, there are also pieces where I need several hours for a single stone.